Thesis DONE (sort of)

Today I turned in my second master's thesis (the first one was for my M.A. from Arcadia University). Very exciting and simultaneously very anti-climatic. It is 107 pages plus another 10 or so of bibliography and prefatory pages. Basically I killed many trees printing out the three copies that the school requires. The topic, surprise surprise, was post-conflict Northern Ireland, examining the factors that have led to a marginally successful post-conflict state. It has pretty much consumed my life for the past year and now it is finally all researched, written and ready to defend. (I won't actually be done until I have defended my thesis in front of a panel of 3 professors, including my advisor, and make any edits or changes they require in order to pass.)

With my thesis turned in I am starting to think about the final few months in Paris and the next steps in my life. I graduate from AGS on June 17th and fly back to the States on the 19th. In between now and then I have two major trips planned, one to the United Kingdom (England and Scotland) with three friends from Holy Cross, followed by a week in Ireland with some friends from AGS. Both of these trips are taking place in my two-week spring break. I am ready to spend some quality time with friends, visit new places, drink some great beer and not have to think 'how do I say that in French?' every 5 seconds. I am also hoping to make a quick trip to Amsterdam at some point as it is the only city left on my list of places to visit before leaving Europe. I have seen a great deal of Europe between my two adventures living on this continent and I will be pretty satisfied with my travels regardless but really want to see Amsterdam (not to say I won't be coming back and traveling some more, because I will).

Aside from traveling, I plan on spending the next few months enjoying a Parisian spring - which involves spending copious amounts of time in the numerous parks scattered throughout the city, finishing up my studies (I do still have 2 classes and my thesis defense to complete), and hosting a few visitors. After that I am back in the States and this chapter of my life is over. Part of me is very sad to see this adventure come to end, and another part of me is ecstatic to be coming home and starting a new chapter. This summer I will be back at Seeds of Peace International Camp in Maine, once again working with the adult participants in the Seeds Program. After August I am not really sure where I will be or what I will be doing. I am currently looking for jobs, really hoping to find one in NYC or Boston, but am also considering DC, Chicago and San Francisco - all cities that have job opportunities in international relations. It is pretty unnatural for me not to have the next 3 steps of my life planned out in advance, so I am trying to embrace this ambiguity and uncertainty and treat it as an adventure instead of a reason to panic. So far this strategy is working, I am enjoying my last days in the Parisian sun and leaving the future to tomorrow, after all I finished my thesis today.

spring flowers in Paris view of Paris from Pont des Arts

Everyday Parisian Life

I realized as I was about to write a blog entry about my recent trips to Belgium and Switzerland that I really only write about my adventures as a tourist (both inside and outside of France), so in addition to writing about my Belgium and Swiss adventures I am also going to provide an everyday look into my life as an American living in Paris. But first...

I took a quick day trip to Belgium (yes you can go to Belgium in a day, actually its only about 1 hour and 20 minutes on the train to Brussels). I went with Ellen (a friend from my time in Ireland) and her boyfriend, Justin, who were doing a quick trip through Paris. In Brussels we saw the infamous Manneken Pis (a statue of a young boy urinating), had some wonderful Belgium beer and chocolate, ate waffles and french fries, and mostly wandered the city. It was a wonderful little day trip and well worth a visit!

(Manneken Pis) (Brussels, Belgium)

I also went to Switzerland for 4 days during the last week of January. During my senior year at Holy Cross I got to know Linda who is from Switzerland (she was living in the US studying English and spent a lot of time at Holy Cross). So when I had a few days off between semesters I decided to take a quick trip to Switzerland and visit Linda. I was in Switzerland almost 6 years ago during my first backpacking trip across Europe (during my time in Ireland), I was only in the country for a day or two during that trip and most of what I remembered was the beauty of Zurich, the wonderful chocolate, and how unbelievably expensive the country was. Six years later, and my impressions remain the same. Linda grew up and lives just outside of Zurich so we spent a good bit of time in the city, as well as a day trip to the capital Bern. Both cities are grand, elegant and imposing. The architecture is stunning, the small cobblestone streets intriguing, and the surrounding mountains majestic. Zurich sits on the shores of an enormous lake and within 20 minutes of my arrival I was sitting on a bench, enjoying the site and some local pastries. Very rough. It was wonderful to catch up with an old friend in such a wonderful site.

(Bern, Switzerland) (Zurich, Switzerland)

Everyday Parisian Living...

The last time I wrote about daily Parisian living was at the beginning of my stay, now over a year in I barely notice how different (and similar) my life here is to the States. On days that I have classes or need/want to go to school I either walk the approximately 2/3 of a mile to school or if the weather is bad I get on the metro for 2 stops. If I walk I go past my local boulangerie and patisserie (bakery with breads and pastries), which I am convinced makes the best baguettes (long french bread) in Paris. Each baguette costs a euro and ten cents and probably about once a week I treat myself to one. I also have a fairly decent view of the Eiffel Tower along my walk, I am only about a mile from the Tower and while you can't see it from my apartment (unless you stand on a chair in a certain spot in the apartment in which case I am fairly convinced I can see the very tippy top) you get decent views if you only walk a block or two in any of three directions. I also get to walk past a high school which inevitably (it seems no matter what time of day I go past) has obnoxious teens outside blowing smoke in my face as I walk by. Not the best part of the my walk, but this is France and second hand smoke is a part of life here.

(Escargot) (Treats at the Christmas Market)

When I say school I might be giving the wrong impression. My school has no amenities normally associated with a school - there is no gym, no dorms, no student lounges. AGS rents space from Alliance Francais, a major French language institution, so the school literally contained on one hallway. It has one classroom, one conference room, a library (with 2 conference tables and about 100 books), a computer room and some administrative offices. Since AGS rents space the school is also not open on Saturdays and Sundays so any studying, printing, etc. at the school has to get accomplished during the week. I generally am at school at least 3 days a week but do the majority of my studying and school work in my apartment (less distractions).

(Taken during a (Close up on the Eiffel)

picnic near the Eiffel)

Aside from school, I spend some time babysitting - two very cute American/French boys. I always babysit for them on Thursdays but sometimes on other days as needed. Their mom in American and their dad French so they boys are bilingual (well the 2 year old understands both languages but barely speaks at all) and I speak to them in English. I am working on my French still (sometimes I will pick up a couple of words from the boys), I have completed the original 24 weeks of classes I paid for - which puts me at a very basic but functioning level, and I am supplementing my classes with a French-English exchange with a French friend (something that I hope will propel my comprehension and speaking abilities).

(Christmas decorations (Christmas in Paris)

on the Champs-Elysee)

Other than school, babysitting, and attempting to master the French language I spend my days pretty much the same way I would in the States - hanging out with friends, watching movies, going shopping, etc. For the most part Paris is not that different than any other modern western city and some days it doesn't even feel like I am living in a different country. Aside from the fact that beer is ridiculous expensive and should never ever be brewed by a French person, the wine and cheese are abundant and delicious, and people are mostly speaking French - my Parisian life isn't all together that much different than my life in the States (that being said, I am looking forward to being back home for baseball and summer ale).

Out-of-Paris Adventures

As wonderful as Paris is, getting the occasional break from the city of lights is always necessary. Recently I have had two opportunities to leave Paris behind and explore somewhere new. One was a day trip out to Normandy with some fellow Arcadia survivors and the other was a three-day trip to Berlin. My trip to Normandy included my friends Chris and Stephen (Chris is part of the same dual Arcadia-AGS program I am in and Stephen went to Arcadia with us and just happens to live in Paris right now). We decided to go to Monet's gardens and then up to the city of Rouen. I had been to Monet's gardens the month before with my family but it was amazing to see the transformation from end of summer into the heart of fall. The trees surrounding the Japanese Water Lilies Pond were on fire with bright yellow, orange and red leaves. Even though nearly all the flowers in the gardens had expired the brilliance of the fall colors made the place even more beautiful than it had previously been. After exploring the gardens we had a picnic and got back in the car headed to Rouen. (Stephen was able to use one of the cars belonging to the organization he works for, it was a really interesting experience navigating around the French country-side - this involved the rule that all things were to be said with a thick Anglo accent so we all knew what we were looking for.) Rouen is the city where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake and there are several things of the city paying tribute to her. The most odd is a modern church at the site of her death, which from the outside looks like some bizarrely shaped Buddhist temple and on the inside has the most beautiful wall of stained glass. The other truly wonderful thing about Rouen is this pedestrian street that cuts through the heart of the city. It looks like something out of the middle ages and you feel like you stepped back in time when you walk down the street (if you ignore the H&M, C&A and other modern shops). We had a wonderful time exploring the Normandy and it was the perfect day trip out of the city.

(Monet's Gardens in autumn) (Rouen)

I also recently went to Berlin for three days. The trip was organized by the Graduate Student Association at AGS and only cost me 20 euros! We flew out late on Monday night and arrived at our hostel just after midnight. My first full day in Berlin was chilly and I spent it exploring the neighborhood where we were staying, visiting the Germany History Museum where they had an interesting exhibit on Hitler and his relationship with the German people, and walking along the East Side Gallery. The East Side Gallery is a section of the Berlin Wall that remains (it is along the river) and 40 artists were commissioned to paint murals on the wall. It is unbelievably incredible. The artists must have had free reign because the styles, messages and content of the murals are incredibly different. Some reflect events that happened in Berlin during the time of the wall (such as a car driving through the wall) and some are messages of hope and renewal. The second day in Berlin was a bit warmer and I went on a free 3 1/2-4 hour walking tour. On the tour I learned more about the history of Berlin, particularly during WWII and the Cold War, saw more remnants of the wall, saw checkpoint Charlie, the holocaust memorial, and various other historical, cultural and religious sites of the city. After the tour I went back to the East Side Gallery with some classmates because I wanted to see the murals again. Finally on my third day in Berlin I went to Reichstag, the Berlin parliament, and went up to the glass dome at the top to get a 365 degree view of the city. You can also look down into the parliament from up top so all in all it was an amazing view. Aside from the site-seeing I had some amazing German beers (served in pint minimums unlike France where they looked at you in horror if you order a pint), great cheap German food (everything in Germany was like 1/5 of the price of things in Paris, it was wonderful), and experienced some of Berlin's infamous nightlife. Overall it was a wonderful trip and and a much needed break from Paris. Now I am back in Paris, slaving over my thesis proposal and eagerly looking forward to going to back to the States for the holidays (22 days, but who is counting?).

(East Side Gallery - Berlin Wall) (Brandenburg Gate)

Autumn in Paris

I started my second (of three) semesters at AGS about a month ago and it is amazing how quickly the time has flown. This semester I am taking two in-class courses (scramble for African resources and modern Middle East), writing my thesis proposal, taking courses in French three days a week and babysitting two afternoons a week. I am also involved with the Graduate Student Association and writing for the school newsletter. Needless to say, I am keeping myself busy. With so much going on I have barely noticed the gradual shift of seasons from summer to fall that has occurred. Days are now shorter and cooler and it is not longer possible to go outside without a coat. It is in the fall that I most miss Maine, I miss the brilliant colors of the changing leaves, apple picking and the sweet crispness of the air. For some reason Parisian's don't seem to have any fall traditions - there are not carved pumpkins sitting out on stoops, no halloween decorations adorning windows in shops, no children's crafts of leaves or jack-0-lanterns in the school one of my babysitting chargers attends. I am sure Parisians have their own way of celebrating the change of seasons - I just haven't discovered it.

Notre Dame from the Seine

Part of what kept me distracted to the changing seasons this fall was a visit from my parents and brother. Mom, Dad and Jacob came to Paris at the end of September and stayed for about a week. We did a lot of sight-seeing and exploring during their visit. Of course with Dad visiting lots and lots of time was spent looking at art - at the Musee Rodin, Musee d'Orsay, Musee de l'Orangerie, and the Musee du Louvre. We also walked around some of the most interesting sections of the city - Montmartre and the Marais, saw Notre Dame and Sacre Coeur, went up the Arc de Triomphe, and took a riverboat ride up the Seine. We also left the city twice - once to visit Monet's gardens and house and the other time to go up to Omaha Beach and the WWII American Cemetery. Aside from the touristy things we ate some great food and just spent some quality time together. It was hard to see them go, especially after such a short visit, but I will be back in the States for Christmas so that made it a bit easier. In the two months between now and the time I come home for the holidays I will continue with my busy schedule, finish my thesis proposal, take a much anticipated school trip to Berlin, and continue to look for those elusive Parisian fall traditions.

Monet's Gardens Sacre Coeur

Summer in Europe: Paris and Backpacking Adventures

I finished my classes in early June and was immediately consumed with visitors and moving. Even though I was moving from one furnished apartment to another and actually don't have THAT much stuff in Paris, the task of moving was an overwhelming activity. First you have to get all the paperwork in order for both apartments (and this being France, that is a A LOT of paperwork), then notify all relevant places of the change of address (like the bank), set up insurance, pack, clean, etc. Of course the end of June/beginning of July proved to be some of the hottest days of the summer and the heat and stickiness just made the task of moving that much more fun. I successfully moved all of my stuff in on July 1st though and have now completely settled into my new place. I love my new apartment, which is a good thing because I am here for a year. It has lots and lots of sunlight (something seriously lacking in my old place) and my very own washing machine! This may not seem that exciting, but in the city of Paris this is a rarity and given the cost of doing laundry a huge money saver.

Just 5 short days after moving into my new place my college friend Molly came to Paris geared up for my biggest summer adventure: 21 days of backpacking and sightseeing. Molly and I had been talking about doing this for a long time but despite all our preparation and anticipation it was still a big task getting ready and out the door. After completely covering every spare inch of my apartment during our packing marathon, we were finally ready and even got a few hours of sleep before catching our first flight to Oslo, Norway! (Catching a flight makes the activity seem easier than it actually was - we first had to get a cab because we had to leave too early for the metro, take a 1+ hour bus ride out to the middle of nowhere, and then navigate the ridiculousness that is ryanair airports before boarding the plane and taking off.)

NORWAY

We landed in Norway and caught the shuttle bus into the city of Oslo. There we left our big packs locked up in lockers at the train station and set off to explore the city with just our very full day packs. We were pretty exhausted but we did our best to see the city and enjoy our time there. That evening we went back to the train station and boarded an overnight train to Stavanger, a port town on the western coast of Norway. We were too cheap/poor for a sleeper compartment so it was a long night trying to get sleep on hard train seats. We arrived in Stavanger early in the morning and despite near delirium at this point really loved the cute town. There was something very New England about the place and we were immediately in love. We were also able to get a short boat trip (about 2 1/2 hours) out to see some of the fjords, which were spectacular! That night we took the same overnight train (same hard seats) back to Oslo and arrived early in the morning. We rescued our packs for the lockers at the train station and checked into our hostel (and were randomly bumped up to a private room which was amazing because we DESPERATELY needed some sleep and a good hot shower). The next two days were filled with exploration of Oslo, including seeing some old viking ships, the castle/fortress in Oslo, and the Nobel Peace Center. When our time came to leave Norway we were very sad because we had both fallen in love with the charm, serenity and beauty of the place but were eager to board a plane and head off to Poland!

(Stavanger, Norway) (Fjords, Norway)

POLAND

We spent 3 nights and 2 1/2 days in and around Krakow, Poland. Our hostel was in a great location, if a little hard to locate (and by a little I mean nearly impossible, we had the address and name but the address was actually the location of complex and there was no signs for the hostel - luckily someone spotted us and our packs and pointed us in the right direction). Our first full day in Poland we took a bus/van out to tour Auschwitz concentration camp. This was something that we both really felt strongly about doing, wanting to see and experience the place of such horror and inhumanity, but there was no real way to prepare for an experience like that. We had an English tour of both of the camps, the smaller original location and then the much larger labor/death camp with the gas chambers. The feeling walking around the camps in one of shock, numbness and sadness - you feel awkward and wrong taking pictures but at the same point want to capture the moment and have a visual reminder (not that I think I will ever forget the images of the gas chambers, barbed wires, or the train tracks leading into the camp). Aside from our time out at Auschwitz we also explored the very quaint and charming city of Krakow. There is definitely a feeling of eastern Europe to Krakow but also an equally strong feelings of old grandeur and importance. We saw the castle and cathedral (former church of Pope John Paul II), the old markets, and spent a lot of time just wandering around the city. Also we ate really well in Poland because the prices were so reasonable and we knew it was one of the few locations were we could indulge. We really enjoyed Poland, but it was hot and sunny the entire time, and when it came time to leave we were very happy to be heading back up north to the cooler climates of Sweden.

(Auschwitz, Poland) (Krakow, Poland)

SWEDEN

I love Sweden. Well we really only saw Stockholm so I can't really say I love the whole country, but what I saw I loved. The city is located on a number of different islands between a lake and the sea and it is just stunning. The one thing that was interesting/weird about Stockholm was there was recently a royal wedding and you could purchase anything (and I mean ANYTHING) with a picture of the happy couple or paraphernalia from the nuptials. I somehow passed on the mugs, t-shirts, calendars, post-cards, tea towels, chocolates, etc. souvenirs associated with the wedding. In Stockholm we saw the royal palaces, city hall, churches and museums full of interesting and old artifacts. We were staying in the old city which is an island full of narrow lanes, cafes and history. I turned 26 while in Stockholm and spent the day at one of the royal palaces and grounds followed by a lovely dinner and drinks in the city - not too shabby. It was hard for us to leave Sweden but we were both eager to see Denmark, our last of the Scandinavian tour (unfortunately Finland was axed from the trip because it was too hard and costly to get to but having seen the rest of Scandinavia I can definitely say it is at the top of my future travels list).

(Stockholm, Sweden) (Stockholm, Sweden)

DENMARK

I have always wanted to go to Denmark, something about the country has always seemed grand, beautiful and full of culture. It did not disappoint. We spent 3 full days in Copenhagen and thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it (including the part where we could finally do laundry because the situation was getting pretty desperate and Stockholm has a lack of laundry-mats). We visited a couple of museums, saw the changing of the guard and the crown jewels, and by far my favorite thing: we took a canal tour. Another wonderful thing about Denmark was my friend Bianca, a fellow intern last fall at the UN, was able to meet us in the city and show us around her home. It was great to put down the maps for a few hours and have a local show us the hidden treasures of the city. My absolute favorite part of the city is a little area known as nyhavn which is a section of the city along a canal lined with beautifully colored buildings, boats and cafes. Twice Molly and I got ice cream cones and sat along the water and just absorbed the scenery (and I absorbed a bit too much sun and actually got a sunburn - it takes a lot of talent to get a sunburn in Scandinavia). Leaving Denmark was bittersweet because it meant our trip was coming to its final stages but it also meant Ireland was just around the corner.

(Copenhagen, Denmark) (Copenhagen, Denmark)

IRELAND

Our voyage to Ireland included a night on the floor of the London Stansted airport, not the best night of sleep or the most comfortable but certainly the cheapest! We got to Ireland (Shannon) in the wee hours of the morning and the second we got on the ground I was overwhelmed by a sense of home. Part of it was the familiarity of being back in a place that I had once called home and part of it was the comfort of finally being in a country that speaks English (although the language barrier in Scandinavia was virtually non-existent). We took a bus up to Galway, got settled into our hostel and immediately started exploring. I had been to Galway only once so it was almost as new to me as it was to Molly. The city is great for exploring and popping into a pub for a quiet pint of Guinness. We also did a 1/2 day trip from Galway and went down to the Cliffs of Moher, one of my favorite places on earth. After 2 days in Galway we took a bus down to Cork, my old stomping grounds. I have been back to Cork once since moving away 5 years ago but it still overwhelmed me with excitement and wonder to be back in a city that is bursting with good memories and familiar places. I took Molly on a tour of the city - the campus of UCC, down St. Patrick's street, into my favorite books stores, restaurants and pubs, and up to the top of Shandon Church for a stunning view of the city. We also did the obligatory trip to Blarney Castle and gave my credit card a workout at Blarney Woolen Mills. Two days was way too short to fully take in and enjoy my old home but that was all the time we had before boarding a bus and heading up to Dublin. I have never been very impressed with Dublin, thinking it a bit too bland European without the Irish charm seen in the smaller cities but this time I thoroughly enjoyed it. I don't know it was the good weather, the fact that it was really the first time I was in the city without a big group or on a family vacation, or my taste in cities has changed - whatever the cause, I truly fell in love with Dublin. We did a lot while in the city: saw the Book of Kells, sampled the Guinness at the Guinness Factory and toured Killmainham Gaol. Again our 2 days in the city was bitterly short but after 21 days out, we were ready to head back to Paris and take it a bit slower.

(Cliffs of Moher, Ireland) (Blarney Castle, Ireland)

Parisian Life Post-Trip

Molly and I had nearly a week together when we got back to Paris so we were able to take the city at a slower pace (and Molly had already visited which made the list of obligatory sites considerably smaller). We had a picnic at the base of the Eiffel Tower, wandered through Montmarte, and ate fondue. It was nice to settle back and relax about - not constantly worried about where my passport was (safely back in my apartment) or having an aching back due to carrying 30 lbs of stuff around (this was only usually going to and from hostels and locations but it seemed to be longer because of the awkward/heavy factor). I got Molly safely to the airport a week ago and since I have been catching up on little things left over from the move, settling into my new place, and reconnecting with friends in Paris. I am very much looking forward to this next month of leisure (broken up with the occasional French studying and thesis researching) before classes start next month and the rest of my family comes to visit! Mom, Dad and Jacob are coming at the end of September and I can't wait to see them, but am kind of glad I have over a month break before the sightseeing starts all over again. Until then, I will be soaking up what remains of the Paris summer and preparing for my final year of graduate school.

Graduation

Today I am officially done with my masters in International Peace and Conflict Resolution. The graduation ceremony, which I missed, was weeks ago but I wasn't officially done until my courses at AGS this semester were complete. Now I am done and only have two more semesters and a thesis between me and my second masters in International Relations and Diplomacy. It feels weird to be done. In a way I have felt done with Arcadia since last June when I drove away from my apartment in Glenside for the last time. Throughout my internships, thesis writing and classes at AGS I haven't felt particularly close or connected with Arcadia...but it is weird to be officially done. Most of all it is sad to realize a chapter in my life is officially closing, a chapter that had so much growth, new learning, fun adventures, and absolutely wonderful people. It is the people I miss the most. Somehow while I was still in classes these past few weeks I still felt connected to the people, now it is real that was have all gone our separate ways - some never to be seen again. I will miss all of the IPCR group, each and every one of them had a part in shaping me into the person I am today. Congratulations to all of the class of 2010 and best of luck on your new endeavors, I am confident that you will each have a piece of making the world a better place. (The picture is old, from the IPCR trip to Ireland in 2008 but it is one of my favorites and it always make me smile and think of the wonderful people I befriended during my time at Arcadia.)

Becca's Visit

Last week I got my first visitor in Paris, my sister Becca. The week before her arrival it was dull, rainy and even a little cold in the city (which made being inside and writing endless papers slightly less painful) but she brought the sun and warmth with her and the best weather Paris has seen this spring was the 10 days she was here. It was nice to have her here for so long because we didn't have to try to cram every touristy thing into a few short days, we were able to take our time and really enjoy the city. I got to do some things I had never done before - like go up the Eiffel Tower and visit Versailles, and I got to redo some of my favorite things - like walk around Montmarte and visit the Louvre. We also took a day trip out to Normandy and saw Omaha Beach and the Bayeux Tapestry. Omaha was especially interesting and meaningful for us because our grandfather who passed away this winter served in the Navy during WWII and was part of the D-Day attack at Omaha. It was very sad to see Becca go a few days ago but it was wonderful to see her and I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of several friends and family members this summer so that I can reconnect with loved ones and explore more of Paris and France!